| However, most of
Finland remained a Swedish province until it was annexed by Russia in
1809, during the Napoleonic wars. From about this time Finnish nationalism
gradually began to gain ground, but it was only after the First World War
that Russian control was broken and independence declared.
In 1939 Finland and Russia went to war after
Finland rejected the Russians' request for military bases in the country.
After a heroic defense of their country against overwhelming Soviet
forces, the Finns made a reluctant peace, being forced to cede 10% of
their territory. Hoping to regain it, Finland joined Nazi Germany in an
attack on the USSR in 1941, but the Soviets' growing strength forced the
country to agree to an armistice, and Finnish forces turned to fight
German forces in Lapland. In 1948 Finland signed the Finno-Soviet Pact of
Friendship, Co-operation and Mutual Assistance.
The country also signed a trade treaty with
the European Economic Community in 1973, and its unique relations with
East and West put it at the forefront of dialogue between the antagonists
during the Cold War. Since the Soviet Union disintegrated, the country has
maintained trade both with the former Soviet republics and western
European countries. The Finns voted to join the European Union in 1994.
The people and the
country
Dominated for 800 years by either Russia or
Sweden, Finland has none the less retained a unique identity. Its culture
is distinctly Scandinavian, but in temperament the Finns are more like the
Russians - friendly but not prone to small-talk. A popular joke in
Sweden tells of two Finnish men meeting in a bar. After an hour one says,
'Cheers'. The other replies, 'I thought we came here to drink, not talk'.
Forest people at heart, in their free time
the Finns tend to head for their country cabins to commune with nature.
Most of Finland, which is twice the size of the UK, is quiet, rural and
wild: the Arctic zone covers a third of the country, and the other two
thirds are mainly covered by forest. There are more than 188,000 lakes.
Finland has fewer hotels than museums, but
there is no shortage of lakeside log cabins, all with their own sauna. All
year round, Finns spend a lot of time in saunas. The country has more than
a million of them, and in theory the whole population of five million
could sweat it out at the same time.
Summer pastimes include fishing, swimming,
hiking and mushroom and berry picking. If you decide to brave the winter,
go north during the eerie 'blue light' season and take a cruise on an
icebreaker. Apart from that the main winter attractions are cross-country
skiing and ice fishing.
Helsinki and Hanko
Finland's capital, Helsinki, is a
small and picturesque city, with wide boulevards and fine architecture.
There are about 60 museums, 40 galleries, 50 Libraries and 6,000 hectares
of recreational areas and parks. It's easy to get around on foot or by
tram.
The morning fish market on the quay is a
good place to sit and watch the locals. The Hietalahden flea market sells
everything from broken hairdryers to Russian meat pies. You may not be
interested in broken hairdryers or Russian meat pie, but this market is
also popular locally and comes alive on summer evenings.
The old Cable Factory has been refurbished
to provide studios and workspaces for hundreds of local artists and
performers. It also has exhibitions, galleries and a theatre staging drama
and dance. For more information contact The Cable Factory, Tallberginkatu
1C/15, 00180 Helsinki (tel: 00 358 0 4763 8300; fax: 00 358 0 4763 8383).
The coastal resort of Hanko is about
an hour and a half's drive from Helsinki. Beautiful seaside villas dating
from when Hanko was popular with Russian aristocracy are now available as
bed-and-breakfast accommodation. At Hauensuoli harbour, the 'Archipelago
Guestbook', carved into the rock, contains the names and stories of
sailors and travellers dating from the 16th century onwards.
Festivals
The Savonlinna Opera Festival (5 July to 4
August) and the Helsinki Festival (22 August to 7 September), which covers
all the arts and attracts performers from all over Europe, are amongst the
foremost events. There's also the Tampere Theatre Festival, during the
third week of August, and the Love and Anarchy Film Festival (20 to 26
September).
LAKE STEAMERS AND
LAZY DAYS
Finland is a land of 188,000 lakes. Within just a few hours drive
to the north and northeast of Helsinki lies the glistening lake district.
Quiet countryside and cultural sights alike sidle up to the myriad lakes,
many linked through canals.
Book passage for a few hours or a long, light day trip to and from many
destinations like Savonlinna, with its 15th-century fortress and acclaimed
opera festival; Heinävesi, and its 800-year old Russian Orthodox
Monastery; Tampere, a model of 19th-century preservation and a thriving
contemporary city. Relax on deck, succumb to the old world pace, and dine
on board. For details, call Scantours (800) 223-7226. |
